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Originally published at RavenDreams - Confessions. You can comment here or there.

Just finding it really hard to try and sell pants when the world is falling apart. Just so many juxtapositions of BLUSH IS THIS SEASONS NEW COLOUR vs TRUMP TO ADOPT 20% VAT TO BUILD A WALL to WHAT MODELS REALLY EAT vs MAY TO SELL OFF NHS TO THE US. I just want to scream all the time! And the number of people who are just gormless with each new announcement!

Let me clear things up for you.

  1. No one likes Trump ESPECIALLY not the GOP. Their pick for president is Pence. So they are supporting and letting Trump do whatever he wants so they can later have cause to hang him. LITERALLY as hanging is still on the books as punishment for treason. So no one is stopping or pointing out the huge hypocrisy (these are the things he had the Repblican nation shouting LOCK HER UP at Clinton) of Trump’s recent gaffs:
    • Using private email servers
    • Linking government social media accounts to non secure private email accounts. Staff publishing secure passwords online…
    • The prolific use of Executive Orders to create new policy (major argument for Obama corruption)
    • Outright and provable lying
    • Pissing off the press (notice how Pence is keeping clean in all this – being seen as the good and reasonable guy?)
  2. Pence is the GOP choice for president. They are using the antics and insanity of Trump to groom Pence in the eyes of the public. Already we are seeing papers like NYT and WP (will find refs for you later) stating they would rather see Pro-lifer Pence in office. Prime example is the Hamilton twitter battle. Trump went off the deep end while Pence issued a statement saying 1st amendment rights are a good thing. Pence is beginning to look like the voice of reason and sanity – This is the biggest gaslight of them all!
  3. Brexit. What a fucking mess and now we have the same sort of American shenanigans starting up here!
    • Tories have been hell bent on selling off the NHS before this mess and now they are using “watch what the left hand is doing to mask the real action”.
    • May only wants to be PM so she will play the Pence role whilst setting up pillocks like Boris and Farage to take the fall for Tory policies.
    • Corbyn using the 3 Line Whip to force through Article 50 so that the public will hate the Tories and blame them for the economic fail that has already started, the sale of the NHS, transportation fares skyrocketing, and infrastructure government and industry falling apart. Let’s not even start with the environment.
  4. Civil Disobedience. So you had a nice day out in Washington? Have a souvenir hat? GREAT! Because that is the same amount of effectiveness that Occupy Wall Street had will less litter!

    “Yet I’ll never forget talking with the banker in his crisp suit and air-conditioned office, looking out the window at the protesters below and just laughing, laughing, laughing. Because he knew they’d eventually be gone and nothing would change.” By Petula Dvorak, Washington Post speaking of the Occupy Wall Street movemnt.

    Protests are really missing a trick here!!!!! With all the many millions of women marching around the world there was no unified message, no unified slogan, NO UNIFIED ACTION! No the action was not the march! It was what you did after! Michael Moore attempted to give focus by creating a Phone Campaign (202-225-2031), but there is no central agenda, groups like Pant Suit Nation who created the March are doing NOTHING to move forward in any kind of a timely manner. The GOP are DEPENDING on momentum being lost and worse yet dissipated into other issues. There are burgeoning acts of civil disobedience from the State Department top brass quitting, to scientists refusing to remain gagged and opening up on twitter.

We are all screaming at every new twist and turn of policy being blasted out by our governments. But here and this is the real point. Nothing they have put out so far is an action either… It’s all hot air! This is testing the wind and public opinion. Let’s take the wall. First Trump announces Mexico will pay, but actually it’s taxes generated on goods coming from Mexico paid by the American people at 20%. Once the screaming started they judged the way the piss was falling and then announced that it was only one of many ways the money to build the wall could be generated. The hunt for the actual policy to protest is exhausting.

The GOP and the Brexiters are DEPENDING upon us all becoming jaded and losing initiative as we spend all our outrage now. Sure there is another march in April about Trump’s taxes – but numbers will be down and the next march? And the next?  We need to focus on the war not all these little battles which are actually diversionary tactics to wear us down.

We need a list and we need to check it twice. And we need to start kicking the Democratic Party.

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Originally published at RavenDreams. Please leave any comments there.

Yes, I did finish the piece in the time limit. No, I haven’t posted until now… Life got in the way.

 



 

The Pros

Extraordinarily comfortable! Doesn’t get tangled when  constantly toss and turn in my sleep. It is pretty, sexy and sexy. Did I say sexy? And yet, as long as I didn’t turn around, I would be happy to answer the door in them. Very modest from the front ;) The fabric is the right kind of weight and texture. I upgraded the lace for something softer tot the touch and classier to the look and more robust to wash.

The Cons

Designing a really posh hospital gown… It’s not exactly warm.

What will I do differently?

For the next version I want to add some of the ideas that can be found in this gold lame/silk evening dress from the 1920′s.

1920s gold lame evening dress via Stockholms Auktionsverk

 

The sleeves were too long and a bit too voluminous so I nee to take them in. I don’t like the hospital-ness of the back but do like the openness so I will look to angle the back towards the front and not have a straight drop. It definitely needs MORE LACE! At the neck, at the sides – I want to emphasise the angles ala Deco. Also not entirely entranced with the waistband on the knickers so that will need to be refined.

I will be using a ballet pink silk satin and ivory lace for the next one! So stay tuned!

 

Love, Abi

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Originally published at RavenDreams. Please leave any comments there.

Ok onto pattern cutting.

So I am using non-stretch fabric in the main bodies of both the top and knickers. This means I have to think about ease. What is ease? Ease is the space between you and your clothes that allows for “ease of movement”.  When you move your clothes to pull, cut, bind or rip (when you bend over…). Mostly in lingerie you work with negative ease – stretch fabric needs to be stretched to fit and this requires a lot of Maths! So I will recheck a standard UK20 measurements and add 4 inches/6cm to the overall measurements as waist, hip and bust. I will also add a couple of inches to crotch and the rise.

first draft patterns

These are my first drafts. They will change at each stage. When I cut out the draft pieces I will redraw the shapes with my scissors. When I cut out the fabric I will redraw. When I sew I’ll redraw with the sewing machine. Changes will be made along the way and when I am finished those changes will be transferred to the original drafts and then redrawn again. This is a process and being flexible is key.

At some point when cutting out the French knickers I decided to make them ouvert.

And here’s my first fabric choices from stock fabrics:

stock fabrics

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Originally published at RavenDreams. Please leave any comments there.

Ok – so life has been overly busy  and in the tradition of having a gazillion projects half finished… Great design comes from necessity.

The heat is driving me potty and I need sexysexy pajamas that are comfy in this heat!

Pet peeves:

  • I hate bunching around my legs
  • I turn over a lot and hate non-flexible straps that then cut off the circulation in my arms
  • …also get twisted around my body so that I have to stand up to re-sort everything

Problem solving:

So French knicker shorts sorts the bunching problem. On open backed T-shirt design will hopefully stop the twisting and strap problem. The brevity and looseness of both will help with the heat.

Now how to make it sexy? A very light weight black satin with side lace see though detailing…

Here’s my quick sketch

Quick sketch for pjs

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Originally published at RavenDreams. Please leave any comments there.

Over the Christmas period I received quite a few requests for petite sizes. So I sat down and had a really hard think about the business. Where was this all going? The demand seemed to be there for my designs in all sizes and frankly it would add to my sales. As a startup I could definitely use the income.

What would be the pros and cons of going full size range? The pros are obvious; greater audience, more money, larger ability to place product in a wider (pardon the pun) market place,  more sales…

And the cons? I spent the first year of the business doing research into sizing and fit for plus size. It’s basically an open frontier where no man, thankfully, has tread accurately before. Refining patterns for each design in each size has taken a great deal of time and tester research. Adding another 6/7 sizes would double my workload and require a change in mindset to understand the needs of smaller body shapes. Face it, I’m no stick and I’m never going to be. Even when I was a teenager I had hourglass curves and Lara Croft’s measurements. I have no empathy at a skin level for regular sizes.  I do not have the instincts for it. I would be fighting against my nature and therefore design garments not fit to purpose. Basically I would suck at it.

The time and research it would require is prohibitive.

The second big con is why I entered this business in the first place. A normal range person (XS/S/M/L) can walk into any high street store and find something on the racks in their size. It may not be a perfect fit. It may not be a wonderful colour. But there will be choice.  I can’t. There won’t be anything. Sales people will look at me and wonder with looks of disgust on thier faces as to why I have even entered the store. Even the many stores who have jumped on the plus size bandwagon will only have the rare one or two items in XL which will have been ripped off the shelves as soon as they came in.  And they will have been basics in bad colours from cheap fabrics and just plain tacky.

Plus size women do not have choice. There are only a few high street chains in the UK who go above a size XXL. There are a few more online options but most often when I find something truly genius it is out of stock (something I have ranted about in the past) or size selection only goes up to an XL, or worse yet an L.

I started this business because I wanted choice. That everything out there did not fit, was cheaply made and just plain tasteless. The process of even looking for garments was humiliating.

We deserve choice of beautifully designed and manufactured to the highest quality clothing that is well and attractively presented by people with a true empathy for the client. Ultimately I didn’t get into this to get rich,  although it would be nice. So my apologies to those who may be offended by my decision,  but the company is RavenDreams Plus Size Lingerie.

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Originally published at RavenDreams. Please leave any comments there.

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Originally published at RavenDreams. Please leave any comments there.

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Being smokin makes a great change to the abysmal weather in England this week!

New Silks!

Jan. 10th, 2013 12:46 pm
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Originally published at RavenDreams. You can comment here or there.

New Silks! Yep we are getting ready for Valentines Day with upgrading all the base fabrics from powermesh to SILK! But these are incredibly amazing silk Georgettes and satins. The fabric has been blended with 90-95% pure silk and 5-10% elastine to allow the silk to stretch. The ultimate blend of strength, suppleness and beauty all in whisper soft, feather light lingerie. Hope you are excited – because we are!!!!

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Originally published at RavenDreams. Please leave any comments there.

How it works:

  1. The Coupon Code has been broken down into three parts. Part 1 can be found on my Etsy page: http://www.etsy.com/shop/RavenDreamsLtd/about/
  2. To find part 2 watch the video “Does your bra fit?” on my blog here: http://www.ravendreams.co.uk/blog/i-can-pretty-much-guarantee-you-are-wearing-the-wrong-bra/ – The code is on one of the text cards in the video
  3. To find part 3 look though the items for sale in my Etsy shop – it will be at the bottom of one of the descriptions.
  4. Put the code together in order and that’s it! 50% off!

This offer is for ONE WEEK ONLY starting today 21/09/2012 and runs til 27/09/2012 and applies ONLY to the Etsy shop.

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