gailsedotes: (evil me)
What does this mean?

To me: Way less of a profit margin. You may be thinking, "Well, ya! Lining your pockets at our expense." That's not how it works for Indie designers.

There are two reasons why prices are what they are...*

1. What the Market will bear.

Prices for luxury and couture/handmade items are set by the big companies. They have done all the expensive research to test what the market can bear and is willing to pay for each item. If you look at the big names (Agent Provocateur, La Perla, Rigby and Peller...), a pair of panties averages at £85.00. Want silk and the price to go up significantly. With fixing the prices in the range it creates an expectation in the buyer that this is quality. Paying anything less creates an expectation that the item is less exclusive, more cheaply and therefore less expertly made and therefore less desirable. So basically, when you see a price you associate a value and a quality with the item.

2. What the item costs in terms of materials, packaging, distribution and time.

We all know that Big Companies can make items at a FRACTION of the cost of the sales price. They can do this because they buy in bulk direct from the producers and use mass production methods in China, India and anywhere the workforce is cheap. It's the difference between Couture and Ready to Wear.

Couture is all hand made in the studios of the design house, like Chanel's latest catwalk show. Look at the video below - it shows all the hand work done for each piece. As opposed to Ready to Wear, which is simpler, is mass produced and usually made out of cheaper materials. What Indie designers do is Couture. While we would LOVE to charge Couture prices, we are small businesses trying to capture your attention. But we don't have the name, the cachet, of the Big Companies so we have to select where we hope our items will fit into the market and sell alongside. Mainly that is selling Couture at Ready to Wear prices. This means that often at these prices Indie designers don't get paid for our time.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3cDhTzoMj_s

But here's the thing... Psychologically - to you, the customer - Something cheap is not worth buying. Something free is not worth having.

The one comment I get the most is that while you love everything, you can't afford it. I want you to buy my clothes! I want you to feel empowered and sexy and amazing and exactly how worthy you are of feeling great at whatever size you are! I want you to be able to buy my clothes! The only way to do this is cut the margins down so low that for all the extra detail work - I sell Couture at LESS THAN Ready to Wear.

So for the foreseeable: Most items have had a reduction from £20 to £30 pounds. And there can't be any more big money off sales...

But I can't go any lower and not lose money. I can't go any lower and not lose your respect for the quality. So what do Indie designers do? You tell us!

[caption id="attachment_463" align="aligncenter" width="400"]Each stage taking hours. First sewing in each pearl. Second creating the form in leather and silk. Third hand attaching each individual rose. Each stage taking hours. First sewing in each pearl. Second creating the form in leather and silk. Third hand attaching each individual rose.[/caption]

 

* and not just another rant about how the Big companies rip you off at 15% of sale price being cost and spend the rest on marketing and catwalks and champagne...
gailsedotes: (Default)
When looking to design and produce plus sized clothing I found four main issues in tackling the idea of making things fit.

  • Traditionally patterns are scaled from a size 6/8 and a bra size 34B based upon a survey of women’s measurements first taken and not changed since the 1930’s.


Women’s bodies have changed in proportion since the turn of the last century and while modern fashion has increased bust sizes in bra manufacture it hasn’t really looked at the female form in whole. Women are taller, more athletic and don’t wear girdles. Modern shape-wear emphasises parts and proportions that would have been considered immodest when the surveys were first taken. While shape-wear is coming back into popular use (who doesn’t own a pair of Spanx or equivalent?) it’s not sort of article that screams of seduction.

  • Scaling patterns from one body type does not address the issues of HOW things should fit in plus size.


Low rise panties look great on a size 6 young model but if you are a size 22-24 and have had children then you know the first thing that happens when you sit down is that the damned things roll down your hips and you are forever having to pull them back up lest they fall off and are found round your knees in public. That is neither sexy nor confidence building. We need to face facts that larger sizes require different designs to work!

  • There is no such thing as standard sizing across the high street.


Every clothing company has its own size charts and while they often agree within 2cm on the smaller sizes 0 – 16, once you move into 18+ it becomes clear that a particular size is actually more like a range rather than a set measurement. So finding your size can be hit or miss. Then the measurements on the size chart MAY NOT and usually doesn’t match the size of item that you ACTAULLY WEAR.

I surveyed over 100 women for their measurements and their ASSOCIATED size of clothing (what they actually bought and wore every day). The results showed that women wear clothing often several sizes below what the size charts said should fit. I know that some high street store size charts say I am a size 34, but I wear a size 24. It fits! I have tried on the 34 and just drowned!

Below is a table which shows the waist measurement for sizes 16 – 28 from several high street stores in centimetres. The third column reports the range of difference between the sizes. As you can see there is a standard tailoring difference of 5cm (2 inches) between the sizes until size 22 – 28 when the range begins to expand greatly going from 5cm from one store to 11cm (4.2 inches) in another. So no standard sizes.

Waist


High street*



Range



Associated



Range



Overlap



16



83 - 87



5cm



16



78 - 92



15cm



5cm



18



88 - 93



5cm



18



89 - 102



15cm



5cm left & right



20



94 - 99



5cm



20



98 - 107



10cm



5cm left & right



22



100 - 105



6cm



22



103 – 112



10cm



5cm left; 2cm right



24



106 - 111



6cm



24



111 – 120



10cm



2cm right; 5cm left



26



112 - 118



7cm



26



116 - 125



10cm



5cm left



28



117 - 125



11cm



28



-



-



-




*M&S, Evans, Simply Be

But what becomes more interesting and frustrating, is that these sizes do NOT apply to what women wear and says fits anyway! The fifth column – Associated – reports the measurements of women who said they wore that particular size. As you can see the measurements cover a much larger range and overlap between the sizes.

Which brings us to the final issue:

  • The 10cm problem.


During the course of the month a woman can lose and then regain on average 10cm due to cycle, exercise, diet… romantic intentions… It happens! Let me tell you the story of one of my first lingerie clients named Jane. Jane requested a set of special occasion lingerie be created for her. The measurements were taken and patterns developed and tested. Everything fit perfectly. Then Jane went on a cycling holiday for 5 days. During that time she lost over 10cm in water weight which meant everything was way too big. Disaster! I went back the pattern cutting stage and redid the pieces. Five days later Jane returned for her final fitting and had gained 5cm back making everything too tight. Extra care during the design process must be taken to address the 10cm problem to ensure a good and constant fit.

So instead of copying industry standard ranges of measurement RavenDreams has gone with what women say they wear. After all it has to fit you not the expectations of some large corporation. The items have been designed to take into account that you are not always the same measurements every day. Comfort and wear-ability are key as well as structure and durability. And all this before we even picked up a pen to begin the design process. We all deserve to feel sexy and confidant!

Check out RavenDreams size chart!

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